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Surdyks

Summertime Paella

 By: Chef Heather Saliba


Cooking paella is a national obsession for Spaniards. Traditionally eaten as a family Sunday lunch since it’s so easy to make and feeds plenty of people, there are as many different versions of paella as there are regions of Spain. Originally cooked in the Valencian rice fields as a laborer’s dish, paella now enjoys world wide fame, and for great reason! It is a fabulous dish to make for summertime parties.  Here are a few important guidelines to consider when making paella, followed by my favorite Sunday recipe.

The Pan
A good paella pan is the key to success. Wide, flat, and made of steel or enameled metal- its design allows it to cook the rice quickly and evenly in a thin layer. Fortunately, paella pans are inexpensive and will last a lifetime with proper care. The size of the pan you use depends on how many people you expect to feed. Pans are made small enough to feed four, and large enough to feed hundreds at a time!

The Heat Source
Traditionally, paella is made over an open wood fire, typically grape-vine wood or orange wood. The fire lends a characteristic smoky taste to the finished dish, and more importantly, creates the famed soccarat, which is the crispy, brown and caramelized layer of rice at the bottom of the pan. Instructions for building your paella fire vary depending on how large and hot your fire is, and what type of wood you are using, but build your fire so that you can have roughly 20 minutes worth of simmering. Be sure to provide a sturdy base for the pan to rest on. You can purchase special metal paella stands, which rest in the fire, or use something as simple as three cinder blocks arranged in a triangle to hold the pan above the flames. If tending an open wood fire isn’t for you, an outdoor grill or even a large gas burner will do. Make sure the heat source is large enough to heat the bottom of the entire pan at once.

La Soccarat
Whether you are cooking over an open fire, or on a grill or indoor burner, towards the end of the rice’s cooking time, turn the heat up a bit, and listen. When you hear a crackling noise, that is the start of the formation of the soccarat. A minute or so after you hear the crackling, remove the pan from the heat. The rice at the bottom of the pan will have a toasty, nutty aroma and color. Paella is usually eaten directly from the pan, and the famed soccarat is the part everyone ends up fighting over!

The Rice
The most important thing to remember about Paella is that it’s always about the rice! Use medium grained rice; Valencian (known as Calasparra) or Bomba is the best. It has the unique ability to absorb liquids, expanding widthwise and soaking up all the flavors of the paella ingredients.

The Rest
Olive oil is a major ingredient of paella, so be sure to use a good one. Spanish olive oil is most appropriate, of course. At Surdyk’s, we use Zoe olive oils to great effect. Saffron is equally important. You can steep some into whatever stock you use to cook the rice, or you may sprinkle it into the rice towards the end of the process. Paprika is a popular way to finish paella, and you may choose sweet or hot depending on your taste. There really are as many different versions of paella as there are regions of Spain, so don’t feel like there’s a right or wrong recipe to use. With that in mind, feel free to experiment with traditional Spanish ingredients: seafood, shellfish, Serrano ham, rabbit, olives, almonds, and vegetables. Remember that the main feature is the rice, so don’t overwhelm it with an abundance of other ingredients.

Paella de Chorizo, Naranjas y Almendras
Chorizo and Orange Paella with Almonds

Serves 4-6

  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 4 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 medium onion,
  • minced 1 large orange, the zest grated into the stock, and the 1/4 cup of the juice squeezed into the stock
  • 3 cups chicken or seafood stock
  • 1/4 teaspoon saffron
  • 1 1/2 cups rice
  • 1 cup pimento-stuffed or green olives, sliced thin
  • 1 link Spanish chorizo, preferably Palacios
  • hot or mild 3/4 cup almonds, preferably Marcona
  • 1 cup cilantro, chopped, optional but tasty
 
Build a wood fire, or start the grill. Medium-high heat is best for paella cooking. Warm the 3 cups stock and 1/4 cup orange juice with the saffron.
Heat the olive oil in the paella pan and add the onion, cooking until lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook another few minutes, taking care not to burn the garlic.
Add the rice and olives to the pan, combining well. Mix in the broth mixture and allow the rice to cook, (without stirring!) until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender, typically 18-20 minutes. Add the sliced chorizo and either place the pan on direct heat or turn the heat on high, listening for the crackling noise of the soccarat.

After a few moments, remove the pan from the heat, garnish with almonds and cilantro, and let rest 5 minutes. Bring to the table and enjoy with friends and family.
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